"The_higu" (higupon)
12/20/2014 at 16:40 • Filed to: None
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"The_higu" (higupon)
12/20/2014 at 16:40 • Filed to: None | 0
| 3 |
I have specs so hopefully I can get a more solid conclusive answer
We have a Sportmaster by KIT Model 277T
GVWR=7500
GAWR Front=3500 Rear=3500
Gross dry=4900
Hitch = 500
Payload = 2600
HammerheadFistpunch
> The_higu
12/20/2014 at 16:42 |
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for a GVRW above 7000 and a max tongue of 500 or more you will want to go class IV hitch or better and move up to a half ton truck. You CAN do it with less, but why stretch it?
Aaron James
> The_higu
12/20/2014 at 17:18 |
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Unless you want to be white knuckling it all up on the wheel and such, go with a "1/2 ton" truck or bigger. If it will be towed a lot or long distances a "3/4 ton" truck will pull it in comfort without breaking a sweat. A smaller truck or SUV will pull it but it will be an experience that you won't enjoy much. (20 years of pulling trailers behind mini-vans, s-10s, Durangos, full size vans, and full size trucks 1/2-1 ton.) so to summarize less than "1/2 ton" nope, "1/2 ton" perfect. "3/4 ton" overkill but man they are great towing vehicles.
Edit to add, you will never be towing at dry weight. Once you put water, linens, dishes, and other necessities in, you'll be amazed at how quick it adds up. You also have to factor in number of people and cargo in the tow vehicle.
gogmorgo - rowing gears in a Grand Cherokee
> HammerheadFistpunch
12/20/2014 at 17:22 |
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Yeah, at full payload this is getting up over the top end of class III with a load-distributing hitch. I don't think it's feasible without load distribution. A half-ton truck or SUV with a class IV hitch and towing package shouldn't have an issue with this. You might be able to get away with a heavier newish mid-size truck (with a class IV) but it's not for the inexperienced. I once hooked up a very similar in empty weight enclosed car trailer to my MJ just to move it across the city, and even without breaking 40mph it wasn't something I'd care to repeat.